Thursday, 19 February 2015

The Soviet Prison - (1)

Back in November, we had been graciously given a generously long break before mid-term exams in order to study and prepare. What do Erasmus student typically do with such a void in the study schedule? – Plan a trip to Tallinn and Helsinki of course! Amongst the usual shenanigans one might expect from a trip to a country with ridiculously low alcohol prices, Estonia and Tallinn bestowed upon us a cultural experience like no other!

Taylor and I high above the old town
After awaking late on a Saturday morning, blurry eyed, groggy and certainly feeling the weight of the night before, Taylor and I discussed over breakfast what we should do with our day. We felt that the activity had to be enriching, non-touristic, a “true” taste of Tallinn and something that you could go home and happily tell your Grandma about. Unsure where, who or how we had heard this, we were both aware of an old abandoned Soviet prison towards the outskirts of the city that was supposedly open to visitors. (Thinking now – the knowledge was probably remnants of a drunken conversation from the night before. A reliable source by any means.)

The tram system of Tallinn is as old as God's dog
We walked for 30 minutes or so (closely following the path plotted for us by Google), the further from the city we walked, the further backwards in time we seemed to plunge. Countless abandoned homes and warehouses, cars from the 60’s and 70’s that had probably not moved in decades, stray cats and dogs commonplace. Though dispersed throughout this time-warp were luxury homes and apartments, newly built and fronted by shiny new cars. It was bizarre and there was an ambient uneasiness to the neighbourhood.


Once “Arriving at our destination” we looked around intently and then back at each other with the same confused face. We were surrounded by abandoned warehouses on dirt roads and the only signs of life were two shifty looking fella’s down a funnelled driveway that only screamed “steer clear”. No warming welcome sign. No friendly attraction workers. No gift shop. We scoured the immediate area for any one of these symbols of tourism but after finding none, decided our only option was to ask the dubious loiterers.

As we approached, I promptly realised the purpose of the funnelled driveway. Guard towers topping high concrete walls, barred windows of the buildings behind and the large open Iron doorway ahead signified we had found the prison. More worryingly, I was intrigued as to what the two men were actually doing here. Their actions looked like they were practising drawing a revolver from a holster, like you do when you’re 5 years old and have just discovered western movies, before finally accepting that that was exactly what they were doing.


I have been around firearms numerous times before. My experiences with air cadets and having a best friend who competitively shot for a club team left me no stranger to weapons and would go so far as to say I am comfortable around them. However, in this moment, I realised that every experience I had had before was in a controlled environment – a shooting range with strict rules and regulations and never “out and about” in society, especially not being wielded by the most communist looking men I had ever seen. Their “private security” uniforms offered no comfort and I tentatively whispered to Taylor “They have guns” – “I know” was his hushed response.


We stopped about 10 meters away and looked for eye contact in an attempt to initiate conversation. The two men were enthralled in their weapons and continued swiftly drawing their pistols from various angles and positions before pretending to gun down their imaginary foe. After the longest awkward minute of our lives, standing there like two touristic lemons, the more senior of the two acknowledged us, handed his pistol to his friend and they both turned and faced us. I opened with “do you speak English?”

Whilst chatting to the chap, I was acutely aware that the friend behind had his pistol held loosely in his hand, not at all with anger or intent, yet directed directly towards poor Taylor. The man explained to us how he worked there as “security” and that the Prison was in fact closed for the winter. Apparently it was open for a couple of months in the summer if you had an arranged tour guide to chaperone you. At this point I was almost relieved as it gave us an excuse to get the heck out of there – but a look of disappointment must have drifted across our faces as the silence was broken by the guard insisting that “I could let you in… for 10 euros each…”


When a man has a gun pointed at you, in front of a large abandoned communist prison (that was apparently closed for the winter and was impossible to enter) and you are being proposed with a legally questionable opportunity for a more than reasonable price – many things run through your mind. Hesitantly, but not wanting to extend the awkward silences any longer than necessary, I agreed to the offer and produced a 20 euro note from my pocket. The guard hastily snatched it away before bombarding us with a flurry of directions and hand signals, left, right, up the stairs, in this door, through there… Before being all but jostled through the large iron door – the excitement and confusion halted only by the ominous boom of metal on metal. The large iron door was now shut.